Reactive dogs are often a challenge for their owners to physically handle and control on walks. Many do just fine until some random bicyclist comes charging up beside them on the sidewalk (and that’s a whole other pet peeve). Suddenly they have a bucking, lunging, spinning and barking Tazmanian FDevil worthy of a Bugs Bunny Cartoon. Looney Toons is RIGHT.
Now of course, your dog cannot hear you trying to get him to calm down, to move with you or to “ Leave it” and you know you really need to get moving away from the busy street. What to do?
Well, hopefully you are working with an experienced trainer to get your understanding of skills and mechanics down and to give you tips on avoiding the meltdowns, but you also will need the right equipment to enable you to safely manage your reactive dog.
So here is a quick breakdown of recommended equipment for walking and working with your dog:
A front clip harness or one with both a front and back ring. The idea is that a leash attached to the front shifts the center of gravity back towards you when they get wound up and also gives you a pivot point in which to turn your dog around towards you and away from the trigger. Some recommended harnesses are the Freedom Harness and the Balance Harness, though I have also seen many a dog do just fine with a well fitted Aspen Pet basic H harness from a department store. It should not restrict your dog’s shoulder movement if possible.
A Martingale collar to prevent slipping out of the collar (a martingale is also known as a limited slip, half check collar) and has enough give to enable attachment of a carabiner leash combo where it is attached to both the front ring of the harness and the ring of the martingale. There are also safety straps available, which are like a mini leash with clips on both ends that attach separately to the collar and to the front of the harness. This is to prevent escape if one of the pieces of equipment fail. (Reminder to check your equipment before heading out!) Safety straps available through www.wholesomecanine.ca and Halti company makes them as well.
A head harness is also an option for control, though they need to be thoroughly conditioned so that the dog is comfortable wearing them…and to be honest many dogs never get comfortable with them and find them aversive. Like much in dog training, it depends on the dog. They can also potentially injure themselves if they are thrashing about in a reaction with tension on the leash. This is a decision that should be discussed with your trainer.
A well fitted Basket-Type Muzzle. This one item can be upsetting for some people and liberating for others. I personally think that all dogs should be acclimatized to a muzzle as there may one day be a reason to do so and usually that reason is a stressful one…and reducing the stress of a muzzling a dog who has no idea of what is happening is a good thing. You don’t HAVE to muzzle your reactive dog but if you think they are going to or have a history of biting, it protects your dog, you and others from harm. Get more information on muzzle training and fitting at www.muzzleupproject.com
Leashes. Good quality, sturdy leashes that have comfortable handles and strong attachment pieces. You can use one, connected to collar and harness together or you can use two, one on each. Many people have difficulty managing that many leashes on hand but if one is a waist leash (and it’s safe for you to use it) then you still have one hand free. I also often use double leash setups for young dogs who leash grab. But that’s a story for another day!
A treat pouch, big enough to hold a bunch of yummies. If you are working with a muzzle, a food tube or cheese strings can be a great way to get the goodies to the dog through the bars of the muzzle. Food tubes are available in Camping Supply stores and online. Silicone shampoo tubes can also be a good tube to try.
Treats. High value. Soft. Stinky. You get the idea.
Then there are the defensive tools. Those ones you may need when you see an off leash dog running up to greet/eat your dog and you have no where to go or no time to Get out of Dodge. An umbrella, Spray Shield (citronella spray), Pet Corrector (air spray), an air horn….all examples of things you could use in an emergency and all examples of things you will have to condition your dog to well in advance. You want to stop the other dog and drive it away, not traumatize your own who is worried enough, thank you very much! If you think the dog approaching is not acting aggressively you may be able to get away with just throwing a handful of treats at the approaching dog and while he’s chowing down you can turn and leave.
These are the basic tools, don’t leave your pouch at home or forget to attach the safety strap. Make it a habit to check your equipment and restock the pouch before heading out.
If you need training assistance, please contact a qualified, non punishment based trainer to help you and your dog get through the woods of reactivity. If you need support there are several good Reactive Dog groups on Facebook that are science based and very helpful.
You are not alone.
Oh, and your dog LOOKS FABULOUS.
