Shebang was four months old when I adopted her. So her fear response is a bit higher than would be if we had done this sort of socialization earlier in her life.
SOCIALIZATION = EXPOSURE! NOT INTERACTION
GIVEN THE CURRENT GLOBAL COVID19 PANDEMIC PLEASE APPLY SOCIAL DISTANCING AND ISOLATION PROTOCOLS TO THIS INFORMATION. EVEN IF YOU CANNOT DO THE “PLACES” PART OF THIS PROCESS YOU CAN STILL DO THE REST OF IT!
Socialization! What Does it Mean?
“Socialization” and “Socialization Period” are terms thrown around a lot with dog people; owners, breeders, veterinarians and trainers alike. Few actually know what it MEANS in both scientific and practical ways.
Socialization is EXPOSURE and HABITUATION to environment. It can be poor socialization (lack of exposure or negative exposure) or good socialization (positive exposure). These experiences or lack thereof affect future responses to novel stimuli. Poor socialization often results in what is called Neophobia, where all new things create a fear response.
The Socialization Period is the period of development in puppies from approximately 3 weeks to 16 weeks of age where the brain is developing at a rapid rate and is OPEN to learning about new experiences and processing them. The part of the Socialization Period most discussed with trainers is the time where puppies usually go home with their families, so 8 weeks until the window starts to diminish at 12.5 weeks to where the next developmental process starts to take over at about 16 weeks.
Socialization is NOT ABOUT PLAYING WITH OTHER DOGS.
Dog to dog socialization: Dog to dog socialization and exposure IS important to maintain, but this occurs mostly during the 3-8 week phase in the litter. With dam and littermates the puppy will get MOST of it’s appropriate dog manners and skills. So puppies after that age should still be interacting with other puppies and with puppy safe (which means tolerant, with good bite inhibition and good dog social skills) vaccinated adult dogs. It is imperative puppies get GOOD experiences with other dogs during these times. This does not mean the adult dog cannot correct the puppy at times, but with inhibition and intent to teach, not harm. Most puppies up until 5 months or so will have “puppy license” to behave with adult dogs differently than older pups as these dogs understand that the puppy is learning.
Puppies should not be attending dog parks. Not only is the risk of disease higher but it can only take ONE bad experience with a puppy intolerant dog or other scary event to create a fear of dogs in your puppy. Dog parks may even be a “never” for your pup. That is another blog post altogether!
So, if Socialization is NOT ABOUT DOGS what IS IT about?
It is about exposing your puppy to all the things your puppy may experience in his lifetime that you can think of. Positive exposure to people, surfaces, sounds, husbandry, places, visual experiences, etc. This can be more difficult if you live in the country versus urban life but you should consider cross exposure to things that may occur in either location. People’s lives change and a move from country to city can create a lot of new stressful experiences for a dog accustomed to a different life.
What does “Positive Exposure” mean?
It means that the exposure is minimal enough (not as loud, not as big, not as close) for the puppy to observe/experience with little to no stress or fear. If the exposure cannot be controlled as well as that, then it should be paired with good things like a favourite food or play. This minimal exposure level can then be changed to closer, louder etc but is dependent on the puppy itself and its tolerance and fear levels. Individual puppies will be bolder or more fearful depending on many factors.
What level of fear is normal?
Some startle response or hesitancy is normal and adaptive. This is what keeps animals (including humans) alive in uncertain situations. Fear itself is a normal response to things that are scary or threatening or unknown. It’s the severity of the response, length of time it takes to recover from that startle that indicates whether there is a possible problematic fear issue. Learn body language and watch your puppy for signs of discomfort or fear and make decisions about level of exposure taking cues from the puppy. Do not FORCE them to interact.
What about vaccine status and being outside?
This depends a LOT on the local disease proliferation. Different areas have different levels of parvovirus or distemper issues and it’s important to recognize this. Speak to your veterinarian about risks of disease in your area and then find a way to expose your puppy safely. Do not isolate your puppy for fear of viral contamination. Do not “wait until they have their final shots” as you will miss the entire socialization period!
More dogs are at risk of dying for fear related behaviour issues than die from puppy diseases. Weigh the risks and do the work. Some suggestions to mitigate risk are to take the pup in a carrier or stroller, carry the puppy places, take the pup in your vehicle and sit and watch things go by, go to friend’s places to meet people etc. Much of the other work (sounds, textures and handling) can be done at home.
What sort of things does my pup need exposure to?
Some of this will depend on what your pup is going to do in in life. Sports? Work? Service dog work? Pet and companion? Therapy dog? The basics will be listed below but you can add in things that relate to the specific plans you have for your pup.
People:
Different ethnicities, sexes and sizes and ages. People with beards, hats, sunglasses, big coats, helmets.
People using Wheelchairs, canes, crutches
People pushing baby strollers, pulling suitcases or bundle buggies, walking oddly, making noises, carrying things
People hugging or dancing with each other
On the Street:
Cars and trucks (especially large trucks), bicycles, skateboards, joggers, running children, public transit, garbage trucks, Emergency Response Vehicles, Construction equipment, Large signs or posters, flags, dogs and other animals
Surfaces: concrete, grass, gravel, subway grates
In the Home:
Vacuums, dropping of things, brooms, appliances, beeping sounds, hair dryers, baths and showers, thunder, fireworks, barking dogs on TV, kids playing or running, surfaces like shiny floors, electronic sounds, mailbox sounds, knocking, doorbells, crates and kennels.
Husbandry:
Leashes, collars and harness, Coat Brushing, nail trimming, eye and ear cleaning, teeth brushing, Clipper or dremel sounds, stand for exam (mouth, ears, eyes, tail, legs, feet, abdomen) Medication dosing (eye drops and ointments, pilling, etc)
CURRENTLY SUSPENDED DUE TO CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC
Places:
Veterinary Clinic (visit for cookies and say hello regularly- DO NOT PUT PUPPY ON THE FLOOR or allow it to visit other animals)
The dog groomer: If your dog will require regular visits to grooming. Ask about puppy sessions!
Pet Stores, Hardware stores and other PET FRIENDLY spaces. The No puppy on floor rule goes here too! You can use a cart or carry them.
Restaurant patios (if local laws allow)
Children’s areas of parks or local schoolyards (outside of direct area, to watch and get cookies, not to interact with the children or go into their no dog areas)
Banks and other businesses that allow dogs.
I am sure there are many more you can think of dependent on your experience and lifestyle! Be sure to socialize responsibly and with care. Along with good training your dog can be a safe, happy and well behaved member of your community!
COPYRIGHT TAILSPIN PETWORX 2020